A Cummerbund Style FAQ: Can You Mix & Match Your Bow Tie & Cummerbund Patterns?

Are cummerbunds still fashionable? Yes! They’ve been a style staple in menswear since the 1800s and the tradition of wearing a bow tie and cummerbund to black tie events shows no sign of slowing. 

The majority of gentlemen who own a cummerbund set wear it only a handful of times per year, but the most social among us have numerous sets. Some stick to classic blacks and reds in silk or satin, while others step into more playful territory with purples and Liberty London pieces, or personally significant choices like tartans and collegiate stripes. 

No matter where you fall on the frequency or flair spectrum, chances are you’ve Googled some cummerbund-specific questions as you’ve prepared for a special occasion. Read on for answers to several commonly asked cummerbund questions!

Pleats Up or Down on Cummerbunds?

First things first, let’s settle the dilemma of how to wear a cummerbund. Answer: pleats up! This is easy to remember if you recall the cummerbund’s nickname: the crumb catcher! That’s not why the cummerbund was designed pleats up, though. The traditional reason is practical – the upward-facing pleats were originally used to hold ticket stubs!

Should a Bow Tie Match a Cummerbund?

Yes – traditionally, a bow tie should match a cummerbund in both color and fabric for black tie events. For strict black-tie occasions, black (or midnight blue) is the standard choice. Less formal black-tie events, such as proms, some galas and weddings, welcome colored or patterned cummerbund sets. 

What about a mix and match – can you wear a black cummerbund with a patterned bow tie of a different color? It’s not expected, but it’s not forbidden either. Events that call for creative black tie, black tie optional, or semi-formal attire invite more personal expression. 

Avoid clashing tones or overly bold combinations – your accessories should always complement your outfit, not compete with it.

Do You Wear Suspenders With a Cummerbund?

Belts are a no-go with tuxedos, so suspenders are a smart (and stylish) way to keep your trousers in place while maintaining a smooth, formal silhouette. Which leads to an important, related question: should you wear a cummerbund over or under suspenders? Suspenders go under the cummerbund, hidden from view. 

Can You Wear a Tux Without a Cummerbund?

You can wear a tuxedo without a cummerbund, but you’ll want to substitute it with something equally polished, like a formal waistcoat (vest). The whole point of a cummerbund or vest is to hide the waistband and create a sleek, uninterrupted line – especially important for classic black-tie looks. 

If you skip both, just be sure your tuxedo shirt is crisp and your pants fit impeccably and have a high enough rise to your waistband covered by your jacket. The overall look still reads as formal and intentional.

When to Wear a Tuxedo Vest vs Cummerbund

Choose a cummerbund for traditional black-tie events that call for a clean, classic look. It pairs best with a single-breasted tuxedo jacket and is ideal for warmer weather since it's lighter than a vest. Cummerbunds offer that timeless, refined vibe – think James Bond – and are perfect when you want to keep things simple and sleek.

Opt for a tuxedo vest when you want a more structured or formal appearance, such as at weddings or galas. Vests work well with both single- and double-breasted jackets and provide a bit more coverage and visual depth. Vests are a great choice in cooler weather.

Note: the question is vest or cummerbund. You should never wear both.

Can You Wear a Textured or Patterned Tuxedo Vest With a Tux?

Yes, you can wear a textured or patterned tuxedo vest with a tux – especially for those events that allow a bit of personal style. Subtle patterns like jacquard, brocade, or tone-on-tone stripes can add depth and elegance without breaking formal dress codes.

That said, keep it refined. Stick to dark or neutral tones, and make sure the vest complements your tuxedo and bow tie. If you're going bold with texture or pattern, keep the rest of your look classic to maintain balance and sophistication.

Can You Wear a Cummerbund With a Suit?

No, you shouldn’t wear a cummerbund with a suit. Cummerbunds are specifically designed for tuxedos and black-tie attire, whereas suits are considered business or semi-formal wear. Wearing a cummerbund with a suit would look mismatched and out of place.

If you're aiming for elevated style with a suit, go instead for a sharp bow tie or necktie, pocket square, or well-tailored vest. 

What’s the Correct Way to Wear a Cummerbund?

To fasten a cummerbund properly, follow these simple steps:

• Wrap it around your waist with the pleats facing upward and the wide part covering the front of your waistband.

• Adjust the strap so it fits snugly around your waist, just above your pants. The cummerbund should sit where your shirt meets your trousers, hiding the waistband.

• Fasten it at the back using the closure. At R. Hanauer, our cummerbunds feature a nickel clasp. Others have a loop or hook-and-eye closure. 

• If necessary, tuck the excess strap into the small loop on the back to keep it tidy and secure. (Been wondering what the loop on a cummerbund is for? Mystery solved!)

• Once it's fastened, double-check that it’s level, with no bunching or gaps, and that your bow tie and jacket are sitting just right.
  
  

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